How to Know If Vintage Clothing Is Good Quality
At Tråd Collective, my wife Jo and I (James) handpick every garment that goes into our vintage shop. Over the years, we’ve examined tens of thousands of garments, honing our expertise in spotting quality pieces. These are our top tips to help you identify high-quality vintage clothing and make informed decisions when shopping.
1. Look for Natural Fibres
Natural fibres like cotton, wool, silk, and linen tend to age better than synthetic materials like polyester. They’re often more breathable and comfortable to wear, which adds to the garment’s overall appeal. Be cautious with polyester, as it doesn’t wear as well over time and can feel less pleasant against your skin.
Knowing how to identify natural fibres is particularly important, as an increasing amount of vintage stock is imported to the UK from countries like Italy, Germany, France, and Japan. Labels will often indicate the fabric content in the local language, so familiarising yourself with these terms can help. Below is a quick reference table:
| Fibre | Italian | German | French | Japanese |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton | Cotone | Baumwolle | Coton | 素棉 |
| Wool | Lana | Wolle | Laine | 毛 |
| Linen | Lino | Leinen | Lin | リンネン |
| Silk | Seta | Seide | Soie | 絨 |
| Synthetic | Sintetico | Synthetik | Synthétique | 合成素 |
Fabric labels are typically found on the left-hand side of the garment’s interior, often near the seam. Learning to locate and read these labels can save you time and ensure you’re investing in high-quality pieces.
2. Assess the Weave and Thread Count
The heavier the weave, the more durable the fabric is likely to be. A higher thread count also indicates better quality and longevity. Sturdy fabrics not only last longer but also retain their shape and texture better with use.
3. Pay Attention to the Details
High-quality vintage garments often feature thoughtful details. For example, buttons should match the garment rather than being generic replacements. Look for buttons made from natural materials, such as wood, shell, or metal, as these are a sign of higher craftsmanship.
4. Check for Signs of Wear
Inspect areas that tend to experience the most friction and strain, such as the crotch, underarms, cuffs, and the bottom of trouser legs. Look for issues like pilling, seam breaks, or thinning fabric, as these can indicate wear and tear that may be difficult to repair.
5. Test Zippers and Fastenings
Always check that zippers, hooks, and other fastenings are in good working condition. Replacing or repairing these can be time-consuming and costly, so it’s best to ensure they function properly before purchasing.
6. Avoid Ultra-Fast Fashion Brands
Some fast fashion brands like Shein and Boohoo have entered the vintage market, but their items are often of lower quality. These garments may not withstand regular wear and lack the craftsmanship typically associated with true vintage pieces.
7. Examine Wool Items Carefully
When buying wool garments, hold them up to the light to check for any thinning or holes. Wool can wear down over time, so this simple test can help you spot potential issues before committing to a purchase.
8. Check for Stains on Light-Coloured Clothing
Stains are more noticeable on lighter fabrics. Pay close attention to areas like cuffs and the chest, where stains are most common. Some stains may be permanent and could detract from the garment’s appeal.
9. Be Cautious with Missing Belts
If you’re buying a coat or garment with belt loops, ensure the original belt is included. Finding a matching replacement can be difficult, and the piece may lose some of its intended shape and style without it.
